Rock Climbing / Upper Kern Canyon / The Limestone
The Limestone
Quick Beta
Location: Upper Kern Canyon
Lat / Long: N 35°57.765' / W 118°28.025'
Elevation: 3720 ft / 1133 m
Route Types: Sport
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Drive Time Required: Approx. 1 hr. 32 min.
Est. Trail Time: Approx. 25 min.
Trail Access Difficulty: Moderate
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50 Ratings ( Avg. 2.96 )
More Details
Area Details Access Quick Tips Directions Road Status Camping Trail History
More Beta:

The Limestone can be seen from the road on the opposite side of the road as the Kern River. This area was originally developed by Dan Osmand, Tom Gilge and Mike Lechlinski and a few other locals also had some involvement. You park at the limestone campground and make your way up a steep but short hike to the left side of the formation (the left cliff) and then you can make your way around the base to the cave on the right. There is a short scramble up some class 4 limestone slab although there is a fixed rope. The old line was a bit scary so we replaced it recently with a donated line. All of the climbs are overhanging and most have nice big holds. The routes are all great and will bring some variety to your climbing. The names were chosen because during the time this this area was first developed the large limestone pockets had some quite large beehives in them and hence most of the names.

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Access:

No Known Access Issues. The only issue may be either sweaty rock when it is damp outside and also the birds and the bee′s that occupy the cave.

Quick Tips:

This area is best used in any other month than July or August. If climbed towards the summer or spring and the day is going to be moderately warm it is best to climb in early morning to early afternoon before the sun hits the rock. If climbed in winter it is best to climb in afternoon once the sun has gently warmed the slab face. This area stays dry in the rain although the rock sweats so it feels greasy.

Directions:
Road Status:
Camping:
Trail:
History:
Area Overview
left

Overview: The Left wall is steep and obviously on the left side of the formation it has a block to belay from with one single bolt for he belayer to secure themselves with.

The Cave is to the right and dons a completely vertical ceiling.

Trail: This approach is notoriously tricky leaving most climbers in more of a cross country mode. if you park at the limestone parking lot and walk by the gate as you start crossing the street walk about 10 steps to the left (this is left if your back is to the river and you are facing the formation it is seen in our slide show on the 3d aerial topo) and cross through some reeds and climb a 5 foot slab and you will end up on the trail. The trail will begin to make it′s way to the Left Cliff. If you negotiate your way around the front once you make your way up the trail to the left wall you come across a steep section with a fixed line that leads up about 20 feet. Now make your way around the right some more to the cave.

The approach is 20 to 25 minutes or less although it is steep.

right

Left Wall: This wall is steep and very pumpy. Make sure the belayer secures themselves before starting a climb.

left

The Cave: The cave provides good shade in the morning until about noon. It also is great when it is lightly sprinkling or raining although the rock can get sweaty. There is also a bolt on the ground towards the middle on the outside of the cave for belaying.



The Limestone Turnout, Topo′s & Photos′s...
The Limestone
The Limestone Topo 3D
The Limestone Topo
The Limestone Routes & Ratings
1 Variation 5.12 yours
2 Chouca of the Kern 5.12 yours
3 Screaming Skull 5.12b/c yours
4 Pocket Power 5.11+ yours
5 You Axed for It 5.12 yours
6 Coral Reef 5.12 yours
7 Cease Fire 5.11c yours
8 Under Attack Again 5.12 yours
9 Under Attack 5.12a/b yours
10 Chemikill 5.12b/c yours
11 Holy Power 5.13 yours
12 Grave the Failure 5.11+ yours
13 Barnacle Bill 5.12 yours
Quick Route View
1 Variation 5.12
The route is on the far left side of the overhanging face. Climb past the first two bolts an met up with the third and fourth bolt of Chouca of the Kern.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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24 Ratings ( Avg. 2.95 )

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2 Chouca of the Kern 5.12
Follow the direct route over the bulge to the 2 bolt anchor located on the left side of of the wall.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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25 Ratings ( Avg. 3.72 )

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3 Screaming Skull 5.12b/c
This is the most direct route on the face. Follow the six bolts to the two bolt anchor up the pocket ridden face.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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25 Ratings ( Avg. 3.64 )

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4 Pocket Power 5.11+
This route traverses past and old sling tied through a hole in the limestone then climbs up the arete. You climb past three bolts and end up at a two bolt anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 2.03 )

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5 You Axed for It 5.12
Just outside of the main cave to the left. This route heads out the big bulge past for bolts to a to an anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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39 Ratings ( Avg. 3.20 )

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6 Coral Reef 5.12
One of the longest routes at the limestone. This route starts at the left rib of the cave and goes up and out left passing seven bolts to an anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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24 Ratings ( Avg. 2.87 )

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7 Cease Fire 5.11c
This climb starts on the left of the cave and climbs the first two bolt of Coral Reef and goes left to meet up with Under Attack to the two open shuts. This route sort of traverses right across the top lip of the cave.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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27 Ratings ( Avg. 3.03 )

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8 Under Attack Again 5.12
Climb up two bolts and meet up with Under Attack at it's fourth bolt and climb to the central two open shuts.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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37 Ratings ( Avg. 3.21 )

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9 Under Attack 5.12a/b
This climb has four bolts in the cave once you negotiate the roof then you will find three more bolts to the same open shuts for the rest of these climbs. A Definite Limestone classic.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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37 Ratings ( Avg. 2.78 )

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10 Chemikill 5.12b/c
Six bolts to the same common anchor in the center above the cave.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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26 Ratings ( Avg. 2.34 )

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11 Holy Power 5.13
Climb four bolts to the roof and once you pull the roof climb past six more bolts the anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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27 Ratings ( Avg. 2.66 )

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12 Grave the Failure 5.11+
Start to the right of the cave. Climb the first four bolts and then join Holy Power and utilizes it's last four bolts to the same anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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26 Ratings ( Avg. 3 )

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13 Barnacle Bill 5.12
Far right just outside of the cave climb past five bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1

Gear: Quickdraws 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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45 Ratings ( Avg. 3.28 )

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More Info?

Climbing is Dangerous! This is not intended to act as a guide these routes require skill and knowledge beyond what this info can provide you with. If you lack experience or ability please think carefully about the risk involved in climbing routes like these. This list is to act as a starting point to reach your goals and to provide a resource for knowledge of these areas not to get you to the top. This information can be incomplete and or incorrect and the resource is being updated as needed or when informed by the community. If you would like to add any info or if you have any suggestions to make this better and more helpful please feel free to contact us.

"Climb Well!"

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