Rock Climbing / North Fork of the Kern / The Needles
The Needles
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Location: North Fork of the Kern
Lat / Long: N 36° 6'28.4' / W 118° 28' 45.9'
Elevation: 8254 ft / 2516 m
Route Types: Trad, Sport
Season: Summer
Drive Time Required: Approx.
Est. Trail Time: Approx. 1 hr.
Trail Access Difficulty: Difficult
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Area Details Access Quick Tips Directions Road Status Camping Trail History
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Spectacular, awe inspiring, beautiful, majestic is how you may hear climbers explaining The Needles. You may also hear the term spooky, scary, intimidating, and deeply spiritual, mystical, maybe even supernatural they may also get called "Above ones pay grade..." However you may view these amazing formations we can guarantee you one thing that they will be rewarding, life changing and definitely spook you.

The Needles attract climbers from around the world looking to sample some of the spectacular climbs found here. The rock is unglaciated granite of excellent quality, as if it were made to be climbed! One of the most popular and interesting features at The Needles is the USFS Fire Lookout. Situated on top of the Magician Needle, the Lookout provides majestic views of the Golden Trout Wilderness, the Kern River Canyon and the High Sierra, including Mt. Whitney.

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Access:

The fire road access to The Needles (from the fire lookout tower side) has been a yearly topic that leaves the community with anticipation, frustration and questions. Year to year the open and closure date can fluctuate and reliability of info from the forest service or ranger station is hopeful at best. This can be especially frustrating for out of towers trying to find out the truth.

Quick Tips:

Be aware there is no water or toilets beyond the trail head. This area is subject to High Winds, Road Closure, Runouts and possible Route Closure because of the beautiful and protected Peregrine Falcon.

Directions:

For Directions please click the view map link and select this area for directions just enter your location you may drag the line around to choose alternative routes.

Road Status:

We have created a forum to help keep access posted year to year. Here is the link to the Road Status. Please feel free to comment and add personal knowledge of up to date beta about the gate and road access. The ranger station number is also listed here.

Camping:

Quaking Aspen, Upper Peppermint Creek, Lower Peppermint are the most popular. Permits are required for fires outside of campsites. Permits and fee′s camping may vary.

Trail:

Upper Trail: You may also choose to hike the fire road which adds approximately 3 miles (each way) to the hike that is already 2.5 mile (each way).

Lower Trail: You may also access The Needles from the lower side via Voodoo Dome. This is done from the Lower Peppermint Creek Area

History:

The Needles early explorers were the likes of Fred Beckey amongst others in the early 70′s. In the late 70′s the area was further developed by Tony Yaniro, Randy Levitt locals Dick Leversee, Herb Leager and E.C Joe.

Area Overview
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1. Magician Dome: The Magician is home to the longest routes at the Needles. This is also home to the lookout tower which sits right on top of the rock. Routes can be found on the dome like Black Magic, Magic Dragon and Hocus Pocus.

2. Djin: This is the most indistinct formation of all of the needles. The lower slabs offer the best climbing.

3. Charlatan: The Charlatan has a huge summit block. This Needle house the famous route Spooky.

4. Sorcerer: Frequently climbed and also photographed this Needle is home to routes such as Atlantis, Scirocco, Thin Ice and Davey Jones Locker.

5. Witch: This tower houses some of the best cracks in this area. Routes like Airy Interlude, Igor Unchained, Ankles Away, Spook Book, The Wicked West of the Witch and the Scary Terrorvision.

6. Warlock: This is definitely the needle that is massive with a huge rounded top and a large divot taken out of the front of it. This dons some major routes like the Romantic Warrior, Titanic, The Howling and the Sea of Tranquility.

7. Voodoo Dome: This is the massive dome seen on the opposite end as The Magician Dome and houses the ultra famous White Punks on Dope.

8. Wizard: Overshadowed by the Sorcerer the Wizard houses routes such as Spellbound and Lethargy.

9. Sorcerer′s Apprentice: Jughead, Love Potion #9, Piranha and the Parasite are located on this formation.

10. Necromancer: This is a 400 ft. slab with some face climbing like No More Mr. Nice Guy.

11. Styx: Small Formation below the Warlock



The Needles Turnout, Topo′s & Photos′s...
The Needles
The Needles Topo 3D
The Needles Topo
The Needles Routes & Ratings
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More Info?

Climbing is Dangerous! This is not intended to act as a guide these routes require skill and knowledge beyond what this info can provide you with. If you lack experience or ability please think carefully about the risk involved in climbing routes like these. This list is to act as a starting point to reach your goals and to provide a resource for knowledge of these areas not to get you to the top. This information can be incomplete and or incorrect and the resource is being updated as needed or when informed by the community. If you would like to add any info or if you have any suggestions to make this better and more helpful please feel free to contact us.

"Climb Well!"

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